Slide1: Certified Natural and Organic Cosmetics … What is a certification body ? : There are several types of certification: Certification of products Certification of services Certification of systems Organization which conducts inspection and certification operations What is a certification body ? Organization Approved by the authorities. Respect of the standard ISO 65: Independence, impartiality and competence. Supervision: Certification Committee Management Committee Slide3: 1978 : Creation of the ACAB (association of Organic Farming consultants) 1991 : Creation of ECOCERT (Evolution from the association status to a private structure) 1992 : First approval as « Organic Farming certification body » 1996 : COFRAC Accreditation on the basis of the EN 45011 norm (ISO 65) 2000 : extension of the certification fields ECOCERT Slide4: ECOCERT In the world Offices in 15 countries Presence in 80 countries Slide5: ECOCERT in Europe Slide6: Cosmetics certification Slide7: To work out these Standards, ECOCERT: Relied on its tested areas of expertise in Organic Farming : respect of the environment, respect of the consumer Relied on a group of professionals organized within a Technical Committee. Sought impartiality in inducing independent scientific expertise Sought quality by being selective but not excessively restrictive Progressive system allowing the promotion of the continuous technical innovations in this area. ECOCERT STANDARDS A useful tool for professionals Slide8: Finished product requirements Used Ingredients Used processes Minimum % of ingredients of natural and organic origin Attestation of the suppliers for all used raw materials Packaging Labeling Slide9: TWO LABELS NATURAL COSMETIC 5% minimum of Organic Certified ingredients on the total of ingredients, which represents 50% of vegetable ingredients NATURAL AND ORGANIC COSMETIC 10% minimum of Organic Certified ingredients on the total of ingredients, which represents 95% of vegetable ingredients Common criteria : Common criteria 95% mini of natural or of natural origin ingredients Natural origin product = product coming from the nature and transformed by authorized processes. Processes must be environment friendly (ethoxylation, sulfonation and irradiation not allowed for example) 5% maxi of synthetic products (restrictive list) Preservatives Processing aids Slide11: Common criteria : negative list Synthetic perfumes and dies not allowed (even if the molecule exists in nature) Silicones, glycols etc… Carbomers Parabens Phenoxyethanol Quaternary Ammonium Products derived from synthetic fatty alcohols or acids. Etc… INGREDIENTS SELECTION: INGREDIENTS SELECTION Example of an emulsion Requirements No emulsifiers like PEG No mineral oil, silicone No viscosity controlling agent like carbomer No preservatives like Phenoxyethanol, parabens… No synthetic perfumes No synthetic dies Active : No solvent like Propylene Glycol INGREDIENTS SELECTION: INGREDIENTS SELECTION Example of an emulsion – Solutions Emulsifier : Sucrose Ester, Ester of Polyglycerol, alkylpolyglucosides… Emollient : vegetal oil or esters of natural origin (C8C10TG) Viscosity controlling agent : Xanthane, Starch, Cellulose Preservative : positive list (sorbic acid and its salts, benzylic alcohol /DHA…) Perfume : e.o. or fractions from e.o. Natural Dies Active : no solvent, no unauthorised preservatives Raw materials coming from organic farming: Raw materials coming from organic farming Type of ingredients : Aqueous extracts (of which hydrolates) Dry extracts Hydro glycerinated extracts Alcoholic extracts Essential oils Extracts for perfumes Oils and oil-based extracts Plants : Cultures annual (2 years of conversion) perennial (3 years of conversion) Wild collecting : declaration of the area (map IGN 1/50000, no treatment since 3 years, protection of the ecosystem.) Slide15: Make sure they are certified (ask for certificates issued by official organisations) Certification of Ingredients according to the ECC n°2092/91 regulation, JAS, NOP A lot of ingredients coming from third countries If food ingredient : authorization of importation If non-food ingredient, no authorization of importation Organic certified ingredients for cosmetics Formulas Validation: Formulas Validation Gather all necessary elements on raw materials (TDS, SDS, certificates, attestations et questionary) Submit the raw material to Ecocert validation if the ingredient is not already authorized (website list) Submit to Ecocert for validation the % of natural ingredients and organic % to appear on the labeling Slide17: Transparency towards the consumer: labeling rules Slide18: PRODUCTION REQUIREMENTS Transport, Storage Processes, cleaning products and procedure Energy, waste, discharge management (waste sorting and recycling) Evaluation of the global quality system (traceability) Slide19: Certification system Questionnaire and preparation of the inspection Inspection on site Inspection report Study of the report by the certification department Presentation of the files to the certification committee : Representative of the sector Anonymous file Slide20: Certification system License : Authorization to manufacture or distribute ECO and BIO cosmetics Certificates: refer to the certified products Slide21: Certification documents: Slide22: Ecocert Cosmetic certification Cosmetics Department Inspectors in 80 countries Certification committee Technical follow up committee More than 130 certified companies (> 18000 products) worldwide Slide23: Certified Products More than 1800 products of which 7% with Natural label Wide range of products : Face care Creams Body care products : milks et massage oils Foaming products (shampoos, shower gel and bath) Soaps Make up Eaux de toilette Some products are still difficult to create = make up, conditioners, nail varnish Multisector Distribution: Supermarkets Parapharmacy Specialized shops Institutes, SPA MOS Multisector Distribution Certified companies: Certified companies At this moment around 130 companies are certified worldwide. You will find the list of the certified companies on our website: www.ecocert.com * New pages on cosmetics certification * List of certified companies Slide26: Certified Natural and Organic cosmetics Contact Us :: Valérie Lemaire (Eco-products and Cosmetics Certification Department Manager) [email protected] Emilie Cherhal (International Development) [email protected] Emilie Lacan (Cosmetics Certification) [email protected] ECOCERT – Cosmetic Department BP-47 F-32600 L’Isle Jourdain Ph: +33 5.62.07.34.24 Fax: +33 5.62.07.11.67 WebSite : www.ecocert.com Contact Us :