Eye Cosmetic Dr. D. A. Bhagwat

Information about Eye Cosmetic Dr. D. A. Bhagwat

Published on July 23, 2014

Author: durgacharan

Source: authorstream.com

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PowerPoint Presentation: Eye Cosmetics 1 Dr . Durgacharan A. Bhagwat Assistant Professor, Dept . of Pharmaceutics Bharati Vidyapeeth College of Pharmacy, Kolhapur E-mail: [email protected] PowerPoint Presentation: 2 Introduction: Most attractive, very much sensitive and delicate Doors of perception and window to soul Life and motion of beautiful face Epitome of expression Kajal : long history in Indian culture PowerPoint Presentation: 3 Eye makeup is an essential item of facial makeup which includes: Eyeshadow Eyeliner Mascara Eyebrow pencil False eyelashes Cover-up makeup Eye makeup remover PowerPoint Presentation: 4 Schedule M-II: Requirement of Factory Premises for Manufacture of Cosmetics I. General Requirements A. Location and surroundings B. Buildings C. Water supply D. Disposal of water E. Health, clothing and sanitary requirements of the staff F. Medical Services G. Working benches H. Adequate facilities shall be provided for washing and drying PowerPoint Presentation: 5 II. Requirement of Plant And Equipment Such preparations shall be manufactured under strict hygienic conditions to ensure that these are safe for use Equipment for Eyebrows, Eyelashes, Eyeliners, etc - Mixing tanks, mixer, Homogeniser , Filling and sealing equipment, Weighing and measuring devices PowerPoint Presentation: 6 Pigments Fats and Waxes Gums Preservative Perfume Pearlessence Raw materials: PowerPoint Presentation: 7 Pigments: Indian Standards IS:4707 (Part-1)-2001 Inorganic pigments Black: Carbon black, charcoal black, iron oxide black Blue: Ultramarine blue, Prussian blue Green: Chromium oxide Brown: Iron oxide sienna shade Yellow: Iron oxide ochre shade Red: Carmine PowerPoint Presentation: 8 Coated pigments Patent by Carlo Ghisalberti A coated pigment comprising: An inner core of a colored inorganic pigment; such as iron oxides and hydrated oxides, clay colored with iron oxides, prussia blue and An outer layer of at least one vegetal substance in the form of a complex with at least one lake-forming ion such as aluminium , zinc, titanium, magnesium, calcium, strontium, barium, and mixture thereof PowerPoint Presentation: 9 From fruit and plant color pigments Patent by Richard Kostick Color pigments can be found in fruits and vegetables in the form of carotenoids , chlorophyll, anthocyanin and anthoxanthin among others. Previously these colors have been used only to color cosmetic products themselves, not for coloring the skin PowerPoint Presentation: 10 Fats and waxes: Petrolatum: (m. p. 43 o C) Used as base Lanolin: (m. p. 38-40 o C) Used in eye shadow and mascara for lubricating and adhering qualities Ceresin: (m. p. 68 o C) Stiffen the preparation without making too brittle/ hard Carnuba wax (m. p. 85 o C) Forms water repellent film, gives luster to the dried application PowerPoint Presentation: 11 Bees wax: (m. p. 64 o C) Stiffens the preparation without hardening it, Used in product to be molded (cake mascara) Stearic acid: (m. p. 55 o C) Saponify easily gives stable soap, Triethanolamine stearate widely used Propelyene glycol: Excellent humectant, useful in eyeshadow , also has good lubricating property PowerPoint Presentation: 12 Gum tragacanth : Used as thickening agent Methyl cellulose: Synthetic gum, thickening and binding agent Gums: Preservatives: Not used in all eye cosmetics Choice is from class alkyl p- hydroxybenzoate Methyl/ Propyl paraben PowerPoint Presentation: 13 May cause irritation, selected with care Floral fragrances based on natural essential oil are used Perfume: Pearlessences : To achieve lustrous, shiny or pearly look Aluminum/ Bronze powders for silver and golden effect Guanine, Bismuth oxychloride Calcium carbonate, Mica, Timica PowerPoint Presentation: 14 Eyeshadow : “ Eyeshadow is cosmetic which is applied on the upper eyelid and under the eyebrows or around the eyes to look eyes more attractive” PowerPoint Presentation: 15 Eyeshadow Solid form: Powder compact type Oil based stick type Pencil type Liquid paste form: Oil base paste type Emulsion type (w/o or o/w type) PowerPoint Presentation: 16 Quality characteristics: Non irritant and safe Good skin adhesion and easy to apply Should not show oily luster after application Should not smudged by sweat or sebum PowerPoint Presentation: 17 Formulation of eyeshadow : Cream eye shadow may be liquefying cream or an emulsion Liquefying cream is prepared with fats and waxes 1. Cream eyeshadow Ingredients % Petrolatum ( m.p . 40 o C ) 65 Lanolin anhydrous ( m.p . 38-40 o C ) 5 Ceresin white ( m.p . 67 o C ) 10 Sparingly Soluble ( m.p . 64 o C ) 5 Mineral oil (viscosity 65-75 cp) 15 Formula-1 PowerPoint Presentation: 18 Ingredients % Lanolin anhydrous 10 Spermaceti wax 13 Petrolatum 77 Formula-2 To these base, inorganic pigments are added to produce desired shades Shades can be lighter by adding Zinc oxide or Titanium dioxide Different shades can be achieved by following pigments PowerPoint Presentation: 19 Blue: Ultramarine (20 parts) + TiO 2 (10 parts) Green: Chromium oxide (10 parts) + TiO 2 (15 parts) Brown: Iron oxide Sienna shade (30 parts) + TiO 2 (5 parts) Violet: Carmine + Blue shade If translucent shadow is to be prepared, pearlessence or luster pigments can be added PowerPoint Presentation: 20 Emulsion type of eye shadow creams can be prepared by mixing pigments into an emulsion and distributing them into the base Ingredients % Stearic acid 2.5 Mineral oil 9.5 Lanolin 1.5 Glyceryl monostearate 3.0 Glycerine 5.0 Triethanolamine 0.5 Water q.s . to 100 Perfume and preservative q.s . Formula-3 10 parts of pigments mixed with 100 parts of above base PowerPoint Presentation: 21 Manufacturing of Cream eyeshadow Blend pigment with petroleum jelly using roller mill Melt other fatty materials in a pan and are blended Transfer pigment mass to molten fats and stir well Fill product into container while hot PowerPoint Presentation: 22 Stick eye shadow performs same function as anhydrous cream Their formulation and method of preparation is similar to lipstick 2. Stick eyeshadow PowerPoint Presentation: 23 Ingredients % Castor oil 42 Mineral oil 6 Hydrogenated castor oil 6 Ceresin 25 Carnuba wax 5 TiO 2 9 Iron oxide (Ochre shade) 4 Iron oxide (Sienna shade) 3 Preservative and antioxidant q.s . Formula-4 PowerPoint Presentation: 24 Manufacturing of Stick eye shadow Melt ceresin and carnuba wax Prepare paste of pigments using oil components Add into above molten wax and grind using roller mill Re-melt and pout into mold PowerPoint Presentation: 25 Pigments can be dispersed in a mixture of oils or in liquid emulsion In such preparations pigments generally settled Thus label such preparations with instruction: shake well before use 3. Liquid eyeshadow Ingredients % Mineral oil 60 Corn oil 18 Isopropyl myristate 22 Pigments q.s . Preservatives q.s . Formula-5 PowerPoint Presentation: 26 Manufacturing of Stick eyeshadow Grind pigments and add into part of oil to form pourable paste Add this to oil mixture Filled into container PowerPoint Presentation: 27 Powder eye shadow can be prepared either as loose powder or compressed powder 4. Powder eyeshadow Ingredients % Kaolin 16 Zinc stearate 7 Talc 32 Pigment 12 Luster pigment 28 Pearlescent pigment 5 Formula-6 Above formula can be converted into compressed powder using binding agents such as Lanolin esters or base composed of beeswax, lanolin and mineral oil PowerPoint Presentation: 28 Manufacturing of Powder Eyeshadow PowerPoint Presentation: 29 Best Eyeshadow Brands: L'Oréal Paris HiP Studio Secrets  Bobbi Brown Shimmer Wash Eye Shadow Nars Duo Eyeshadow Clinique Colour Surge Eye Shadow Soft Shimmer Victoria's Secret Wet/Dry Eyeshadow Urban Decay Deluxe Eyeshadow LORAC On Screen Duo MAC Eyeshadow Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Cream Shadow Sonia Kashuk Powder Partners Eye Shadow Duo PowerPoint Presentation: 30 What new in eyeshadow : Eyeshadow sticker PowerPoint Presentation: 31 Digital eyeshadow Still in the early stages of development, but this LED eyeshadow seems to be a very interesting idea to experiment with in the future. This idea was conceived and designed by Lulin Ding (Industrial and graphic designer, Netherland) PowerPoint Presentation: 32 Eyeliner: “Eyeliners are cosmetic products for use on eyelids, particularity the upper eyelids close to the eyelashes ” PowerPoint Presentation: 33 Quality characteristics: Absolutely non irritant as applied to the edge of eyes Liquid eyeliners should dry quickly Easy to apply Should not peel off, smudged or crack Should not spoiled or come off with sweat and tears Should be no separation or precipitation of pigments Should have as less microbial contamination as less Eyeliners: Liquid eyeliners Cake eyeliners PowerPoint Presentation: 34 Formulation of Eyeliners: It is suspension of pigments in base containing film forming material Film forming material: PVP GMS, Diethylene glycol monostearate : make application smooth and increase viscosity Surfactant: enhance spreading properties and even application Glycerin: making film smooth and prevent drying out Mg carbonate and Mg aluminium silicate: adjust volume of pigment 1. Liquid eyeliners PowerPoint Presentation: 35 Ingredients % Polyvinyl pyrolidone (PVP) 2 Magnesium aluminium silicate 2 Glycerin 4.5 Lanolin 0.5 Diethylene glycol monostearate 3 SLS 1 Pigment 12 Water q.s . to 100 Preservatives q.s . Formula-7 PowerPoint Presentation: 36 Manufacturing of liquid eyeliner Disperse Mg aluminium silicate in part of water to produce suspension Dissolve PVP in it and heat gently Add above mixture to molten stearate and lanolin Dissolve preservatives in glycerin and disperse pigments, add dispersed pigments to above mixture Finally dissolve SLS in small quantity of water and mix PowerPoint Presentation: 37 Cake eyeliners are similar in formulation to cake eyeshadow but contain higher proportions of pigments and sufficient binding agent. These are applied with wet brush 2. Cake eyeliners Ingredients % Kaolin 5 Zinc stearate 12 Precipitated calcium carbonate 7 Pigments 10 Talc q.s . to 100 Formula-8 PowerPoint Presentation: 38 Best Eyeliner Brands: Lancôme  Artliner Precision Point Eyeliner   Essence I Love Smokey Jumbo Pencil CoverGirl  Ink It Eyeliner Clarins  3-Dot Eyeliner Smashbox  Always Sharp Waterproof Kohl Liner Pixi  Crayon Combo Revlon  PhotoReady Kajal Eyeliner Yves Saint Laurent Beauty Eyeliner Baby Doll PowerPoint Presentation: 39 Mascara: “Mascara is used to accentuate eyelashes and make them more visible, more pronounced thereby enhancing the character of eyes” PowerPoint Presentation: 40 Quality characteristics: Should easy to apply and capable of even application Should not cause smudging Should not cause eyelashes to stick together Should dry fairly rapidly, but not so rapidly that interferes with evenness of application Should be non-toxic and non-irritant Should be easy to remove Mascara: Cake Cream Liquid PowerPoint Presentation: 41 Formulation of Mascara: Early mascara were cake composed of soap and pigments Soap have higher pH (around 10) therefore such product cause irritation Tears, rains, etc could cause smudging 1. Cake Mascara Ingredients % Carbon black 55 Coconut oil sodium soap 22.5 Palm oil sodium soap 22.5 Formula-9 PowerPoint Presentation: 42 Now oil sodium soap replaced with TEA stearate or oleate Less alkaline and have less potential for irritation Ingredients % Triethanolamine stearate 55 Carnuba wax 24.5 Paraffin wax 12.5 Lanolin anhydrous 4.5 Carbon black 3.5 Preservatives q.s Formula-10 PowerPoint Presentation: 43 Another version of cake mascara with hardness of the mass cut down by water so that can fill into tube and applied with dry brush 2. Cream Mascara Ingredients % Stearic acid 12 Isopropyl myristate 6 Glyceryl monostearate 5.5 Glycerin 5.5 Triethanolamine 3.5 Water 57.5 Pigments 10 Preservatives q.s . Formula-11 PowerPoint Presentation: 44 Lotion type of cream with good lasting properties can be prepared by adding PVA or film forming agents such as Polyvinyl acetate 1 % Bentonite can be added to avoid settling of pigments Water proof mascara claimed by Kambersky in his patent for fast drying and waterproof Ingredients % Ingredients % Bees wax 29 Castor oil 5 Turpentine oil 11 Lanette -N 6.6 Eucalyptus oil 6.6 Terpineol 3.3 Linseed oil 5.5 Water 33 Formula-12 PowerPoint Presentation: 45 Available for long time but not so popular because of water solubility and stickiness Earlier prepared by suspending pigments in mucilage 3. Liquid Mascara Ingredients % Rosin (10 % solution in alcohol) 3.5 Castor oil 2.5 Carbon black 12 Alcohol 82 Formula-13 Drawback: May irritate eye if accidently dropped in eye PowerPoint Presentation: 46 Drawback of water solubility and stickiness was overcome by using modern preparation containing alcoholic solution of resin and suspending carbon black in it. Ingredients % Rosin 0.3 Alcohol 10 Water 82 Carbon black 7.7 Preservative q.s . Formula-14 PowerPoint Presentation: 47 Manufacturing of mascara PowerPoint Presentation: 48 Best Mascara Brands: Lancôme Hypnose Mascara Dior DiorShow Backstage Makeup Mascara L'Oreal Paris Voluminous Mascara Benefit They're Real Mascara MAC False Lash Mascara Dior DiorShow New Look Mascara MAC Extended Play Mascara PowerPoint Presentation: 49 Latest Plastic Applicators for Mascara : Delta™ Brush Scale™ Brush Roots™ Brush Illusion™ Brush Space™ Brush PowerPoint Presentation: 50 Eyebrow pencil: “Eyebrow pencils are used to accentuate the natural eyebrow line or to modify it after plucking” Available either in crayon type or ordinary pencil type Manufactured in many shades black to brownish black and brown to blue PowerPoint Presentation: 51 Quality characteristics: Should feel soft on skin while applying Line drawn should be thin and clear Makeup should last well Should be stable: should no sweating, blooming, breakage Formulation of Eyebrow pencil: Crayon pencil is similar to lip pencil but contain higher proportion of waxes to increase the melting point so that can be molded into thin stick Extruded eyebrow pencil formulated in same manner to the crayon type, is placed in a wooden casing like ordinary pencil PowerPoint Presentation: 52 Formula-15 Ingredients % Talc 12 TiO 2 5 Kaolin 13 Japan wax 18 Bees wax 7 Stearic acid 10 Hydrogenated castor oil 5 Petrolatum 4 Lanolin oil 3 Liquid paraffin 3 Black iron oxide 20 Antioxidant q.s . PowerPoint Presentation: 53 Manufacturing of Eyebrow pencil Mix black iron oxide, TiO 2 , Talc and Kaolin in a blender Heat the waxes and other fatty materials Add powder mixture from blender to molten wax Knead thoroughly to mix pigments uniformly Mold into lead and put into wooden casing PowerPoint Presentation: 54 Best Eyebrow Pencil Brands: Christian Dior Diorshow Brow Styler Pencil Kevyn Aucoin The Precision Brow Pencil - Brunette MAC Eyebrow Pencil T. LeClerc Eyebrow Pencil Lancome 'Le Crayon Poudre' Brow Powder Pencil Lakme Eyebrow Pencil - Black NYX Eye Brow Pencil 24 Karat 925 PowerPoint Presentation: 55 Automatic Eye Pencil Duo Refil: Product Details: This is a refill cartridge for the Automatic Eye Pencil Duo. Snaps easily into place so you can change shades in an instant. PowerPoint Presentation: 56 Evaluation of Eye Cosmetic: Before launching a product, chemical tests, toxicological tests, bacteriological tests, shelf tests and use tests must be carried out. Patch test: Patch testing is used to identify causes of contact dermatitis Test Preparation Test Placement PowerPoint Presentation: 57 Patch removal Reading the results PowerPoint Presentation: 58 The following methods are commonly available and used in the cosmetic industry: Microbial testing: Though all eye cosmetic does not contain water and hydrophilic ingredients, contaminants from raw material, moulds, storage kettle and preparation container may lead microbial growth Pharmacopoeia methods: CTFA Microbiology Guidelines: ASEAN Cosmetic Harmonized Testing Method In-house test protocols: ISO standard: IS0 11930 “Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product” PowerPoint Presentation: 59 The Personal Care Products Council (formerly Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association – CTFA) PowerPoint Presentation: 60 Consistency and hardness of eyeliner and eyebrow pencil: A wooden pencil case may be cut in half using razor to inspect for undispersed pigment particles Use must be able to sharpen pencils and those pencils with too much oil or pigments may crumble when sharpened. A good pencil will sharpen easily, time after time. Droop test: Breaking strength of pencil can be determined by this test. Special designed wooden slots are used to hold uncased leads which are placed at 40 o C in oven for 2 hr. The degree of droop beyond the case is measured and determined visually or using protractor and grade is assigned. PowerPoint Presentation: 61 Pencils are also monitored at elevated temperatures such as 37-50 o C to check for shrinking, melting, oil separation or pigment bleeding. Test for dry products: (powders, compact) Uniformity in distribution of pigments, pearlessence, oil: Powder pressed between white papers: undispersed pigments shows specks, uneven pearl distribution produces clumps of pearl in sample. When powder cake scrapped with a spatula: undispersed pigments shows specks/ streaks. Glazing: results of poor oil distribution may cause poor colour pick up and pay off from cake. PowerPoint Presentation: 62 Press quality: Method 1: Press pencil eraser around the edges of cake, noting indentation depth. Evaluate against standard for acceptable indentation depth and appearance Method 2: Drop a cake from an established height of 10 inches. Record number of drops required for breakage. Acceptable cake generally break after 3 drops. Texture and ease of application PowerPoint Presentation: 63 Test for emulsion based eye preparation ( eyeshadow , eyeliner): Uniformity in distribution of pigments, pearlessence, oil: Liquid/ cream makeup drawn on the white paper to check colour and pigment dispersion. Streaks of colour indicate additional milling/ mixing of pigments It also be evaluated by placing sample between two glass slides and pressing them together. This method shows any excess air incorporated in the product. Excessive air cases a product’s specific gravity fall below specification causing low fill weight container on filling line. Other tests: Viscosity, pH, emulsion stability at elevated temperature PowerPoint Presentation: 64 Colour match can be evaluated by applying formulation on forearm and comparing with standard Loss of solvent in mascara and eyeliner during processing can be evaluated by applying product to skin: tacky, uneven and streaked product application to skin mean excessive solvent loss and can be confirmed by appropriate analytical technique PowerPoint Presentation: 65

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